MINDFUL TEMPERAMENT TESTING VS. SHORT CHECKPOINT TEST

Imagine a psychologist would temperament test a troubled child for 5 to 20 minutes without taking into account past or present circumstances such as abuse, stress, hunger, pain or trauma; label and determine the child's future entirely based on that checkpoint test.

That is sad reality for dogs unfortunate enough to be surrendered to, or picked up by a humane society or rescue foundation that applies a short and subjective temperament test conducted in an artificial environment.

Any person who tests or inspects anything using a checkpoint test is in an automated frame of mind and in danger of missing crucial information with the result that the evaluation is incomplete and conclusions drawn incorrect. Checkpoint tests are popular in all areas of life, because they are less time consuming and the tester/inspector/assessor does not have to be all that competent.

The consequences of mistakes made during a routine, rather than expert, evaluation are "only" monetary when material things are checked, for example a car or house. The consequence for a dog who fails a temperament checkpoint test is often the death sentence.



The purpose of a temperament test is to find out if the dog is likely going to be an enjoyable companion for his humans and safe for society at large. Since most people live in an urban and suburban environment, this is where the assessment has to take place.

After having performed temperament checkpoint tests for a big city humane society for one year, I switched to a smaller, rural shelter that allowed me to assess dogs in a way that is mindful, holistic, reveals valuable information about the dog in the "real world" and does no further emotional and mental damage to the dog.The type of test I believe every dog deserves.

I averaged 3-5 dogs per week; various breeds and mutts, dogs of all ages and sizes. Every dog that belonged to a "bully" breed, had a known bite history, was difficult to read and stoic, or raised concerns with staff or volunteers, joined me on a 60-90 minute walk away from the shelter. I chose places where we'd likely encounter trucks and buses, joggers and cyclists, dogs and other animals, old folks with canes and young ones running and playing. Depending on the dog I included a car-ride, trip to the off-leash park, to town where many people gather on narrow sidewalks, or a casual stroll passed a school at recess.

That is where people that own dogs live. Those are normal activities people want their dog to be part of. That is where every temperament assessment should take place.




Not every dog gives clear signals about his mental and emotional state. Some dogs are genetically predisposed to be less showy - are stoic, dignified and subtle. Others have been punished for undesired emotional expressions such as growls and learned to suppress them. Therefore, throughout the temperament test I observe subtle signals - pupil dilation, breathing, mouth and lip movements, tail base position and body weight shifts are just few examples of a dog's communication as a honest account how he/she feels at the moment about me and the environment. The ability to comprehend soft talk allows for a mindful and gentle assessment as opposed to a crude and overbearing one, in which a dog is pestered until he gives easy to read signals.

My goal is not to proof that the dog is able to bite if pushed repeatedly into a corner or taunted with food. My goal is to determine as accurately as possible how a dog handles normal, every day situations.

THIS IS WHAT I PAY ATTENTION TO WHEN I TEMPERAMENT TEST A DOG

OUTSIDE THE RUN: Is the dog paying attention to me; barking and lunging at the other dogs, if yes, at every dog or just one or the other singled out one. Or ignoring everyone and pulling frantically to get away. Or so charged up that she redirects bites.

AWAY FROM THE SHELTER: How long does it take the dog to calm down; is he focused more on the environment or me; what is the percentage of attention the dog offers me - not prompted - vs. the environmental stimuli; what do I have to do to get the dog's attention. Is the dog needy and clingy, afraid, cautious, aloof, confident, hyper, unmotivated.

Does the dog offer connection and closeness, looks at me with soft eyes and a fluid, loose body. Is he predatory and motion sensitive, if yes, how determined to chase and what. What does it take to get his attention. What is the distance the dog needs to remain calm and responsive. Does anything frighten, worry the dog, if yes, what is the reaction: retreat, submission, avoidance, offering eye contact and connection to me, or tense body, stares and growls, or hyper lunging, barking, whining, pulling - towards or away from the trigger. Does she relax afterwards or remain tense and cautious.

A lot of information can be gained by observing pee behavior. Is the dog marking, where, when, how often, or not peeing at all, or peeing to eliminate only. Is the female lifting her leg, or the boy dog peeing like a girl.

AROUND OTHER DOGS: Is the dog playful; fearfully reactive; aggressive, disinterested, submissive. Is the dog still aware of my presence around other dogs. How is the behavior different with puppies, opposite gender, senior or intact dogs. Equally important, how is the other dog reacting to mine. As much as we dog pros love to toot our horn, a dog savvy dog is always better in reading his own kind. If every dog gives submissive appeasement signals to the one I have on leash, or if my dog's attempts to play are met by most other dogs with growls, I get a pretty good idea what her personality is like.

TRAINING COMMANDS: I don't test for or expect the dog to know obedience commands any more than I would expect a child from a foreign country to speak my language. Any reasonably clever dog can learn "stuff" in a short time, provided he accepts guidance. The willingness to learn is what is important to me, and what I watch for during my temperament assessment.

RESPONSE WHEN ANNOYED: Throughout the walk I handle the dog periodically. Stroke, pat, uncurl a tail, run my hand around ears and nose, startle-touch when the dog in ahead of me or engaged in sniffing. I might grab her collar or place my hand between her shoulder blades, or blow lightly in her face. I try to find something adults or children might inadvertently do that sets the dog of. If yes, how intense is the response. Snarl, snap, tension, avoidance, submission, attack. How long does it take for the dog to relax again and what happens if I repeat what annoys her.

Is the dog nervous when people look at him. Is that different with men, women, children. What if a child pretend barks.

What does the dog do when I have a small treat between my fingers and in his mouth, but don't release. If I cup a treat on the ground with my hand.

AROUSAL IN PLAY: How quickly charges the dog up when I jog, sprint or play. To what level. How fast and what does it take for the dog to mellow again.

SPACE BEHAVIOR: Is the dog respectful of my space or rudely encroaching; what about people and dogs we meet. What is the distance my dog changes from relaxed to concerned. What is his sense/need/radius of personal space. Is he leaning into me, can I hover over him. Is he mounting. What is the distance when she changes from being attentive to me to focusing on the environment. When I gently walk into a dog's space is she backing up, standing her ground, pushing into me, jumping up, becoming tense, moving around me.

BITING: if a dog uses his teeth inappropriately, or has bitten in the past, what is the level of bite inhibition and what is the intention. Snap and intentional miss; grab and hold on with various degrees of pressure; reactive or redirected nips. Bruise, scrapes, puncture. Repeated attacks or one bite. Where did/does she connect. At the heels, legs, anything in mouth height, or jumps up to face or neck bite. In relation to another dog, does she nip at the legs in chase, place her mouth around another dog's nose, or neck grab, bite and shake.

RESOURCE GUARDING: I temperament test for resource guarding but don't use the food bowl and assessor hand method. To determine accurately if the dog is possessive over resources, one has to find a resource that is important to the dog. That isn't always food. A dog can be passionate about a stick, toy, bone, space, location, a person and a million other things. I aim to find something that is important enough to the dog to defend and observe intensity and space behavior.Is the dog giving clear warnings, how close can I get to his possession, can I instill safety and he lets me approach closer. Is he possessive over me and warning people and dogs away - will he take my lead when I move in front of him.

Read my Seattle PI blog about resource guarding and the food/assessor hand test.

IN CONCLUSION

During my hour or two spent with the dog, I am always mindful, see the dog holistically and try to contribute to his well-being. A temperament assessment should never do harm. To disturb an already stressed and frightened dog more does not paint a clearer picture what the dog is all about. To taunt a dog with a fake hand after he is offered necessary for survival food is abusive. To intimidate a dog, or inflict pain, diminishes the dog's trust in people more and could create generalized negative associations to a training type facility or people handling him. That adds hurdles to future training and relationships and makes life for the dog and his/her new family more difficult.

And, there is an additional concern. The average dog owner, when told that the dog passed a temperament test, takes this as a guaranty for a problem free dog. The false sense of safety can erase caution, and might decrease the possibility that further, bonding, training is pursued.

Is mindful temperament testing a guaranty for a lifelong safe pet? No, it isn't. Behavior is always dynamic. But it is as good as it gets to find out how the dog behaves in the real world.




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